Food, a Funeral, and a Washing Machine

My neighbors and I have been sharing a lot of food lately. They cook a Jordanian meal for us and bring it over on a silver tray, and it is always mind-boggling delicious. Within a day, I return their plates on their silver tray, with food that I have made. I've learned my lesson that Jordanians do not like spicy food, so curry is a big no-no. But boy! They sure do love pancakes!

Food is one of the best ways I know to connect with people, and Jordanians seem to have the same sentiment. It's a way for us to reach out to each other across cultures, each of us trying something new. It's a way to show that we care about each other.

Thursday night, our next-door neighbors brought us a new dish to try. The next morning, I made them a huge, heaping stack of pancakes fresh off the stove. In a side bowl I gave them some apricot jam.

Later on that day, I got a call from Rana (my mudeera/boss and friend), and she and Ayat were going to give their condolences to a grieving family for the loss of their father/grandfather and were wondering if I would come with them. It's a family I know, and an important one for me to visit, so I went along.

We were in the house with only women, and the place was packed. Jordanians grieve for three days here, and yesterday was the third day. I greeted and shook each woman's hand--there must have been 100 or so crammed in there, all sitting down on farshas. Then I found a nook and a band of women welcoming me to sit next to them, so I joined them. They were the daughters of the deceased--all in their 30s or 40s now. I already knew one of them well, because she works in the Post Office and is always the one to call us when we have a package.

I stayed roughly an hour, talking with these women and admiring their children. Then a lady came to me to offer me dates that were flavored with cardomom and dipped in coconut shavings, and I took one, and that obviously wasn't enough, so she grabbed a handful herself and placed it in a tissue, and then gave it to me.

Being the foreinger, the entire room had their eyes on me. When I ate my first date, suddenly that room full of mourners was roaring with laughter. It was as if I had managed to do the funniest thing they had ever seen. They were laughing because I had put the date in my mouth without taking the pit out first, and therefore figured that I had no idea the seed was still inside. I didn't think I had to take the pit out first with these particular dates, because they were the small ones, and the small ones are really gooey. I knew that I was supposed to take the pit out with big dates though, but those are easy.

Anyway, I was laughing with them, because it's very funny when you see the situation throught their eyes. The next date I ate, I was sure to pull it apart first, pick out the pit, and then put the fruit in my mouth. They were stunned. "Wow, she learns so fast" I could hear them say among each other.

The moment I got home, I learned that our neighbors had been by looking for me while I was out. So I went over to their door and asked what they wanted.

I need to tell you a brief bit of background first. Erik and I finally bought a washing machine for our clothes. When you think of a washing machine, don't think of the ones we have in the
States. These ones are smaller, and you fill them up with water yourself. When the load is done, you drain out the water, usually emptying it into a bucket, or if there is a draining hole in the floor close enough to the washer, you can let the water drain into that through a hose. Then you fill it up with water again, rinse the clothes, drain it again, and then put the clothes into the spinning compartment. You can only spin a few articles of clothing at a time. The water then spins out and you have close-to-dry clothes. Beautiful!

Our washing machine cost us 90 dinar, which is roughly 127 US dollars. That sure is a lot cheaper than anything you can get in the States! And you know what else? When we wash clothes and drain them, water gets all over the floor, even though we use the hose and most of it goes to the destination we designated. That means that ever time we do the laundry, we also clean the floor! I bet your washing machine doesn't do that for you--wash the clothes AND clean the floor! And how much does it cost to own one of those machines? Hmmm?! Yep, we definitely have the better deal.

And if you're wondering how one cleans the floors here, it is quite genius. There are big holes in the floor that you shovel water into when you're mopping (there's a cover for these holes when not in use). So you dump soapy water onto the ground, and then use a giant squeegie to move the water from the floor into the hole in the ground, and poof! The floor is clean and the water is gone.

Back to the story...

I knew our neighbors had a washer, but not a spinner. So when we got our washing machine, I told them that if they ever wanted to have their clothes spun dry, I'd be happy to help them with that. They have a big family, and it's especially difficult to get clothes dry in the winter.

So last night, when I got home, it turned out that they had been doing the laundry and were wondering if I would be willing to spin their clothes for them. Of course! I was so delighted that they took me up on my offer! I said I was very happy to help, and they helped me carry their buckets of sopping-wet clothes to my door, I spun the water out and returned them, and they were thrilled. It makes life so much easier for them. I would know--I used to have to try to dry my clothes as best as possible with my hands. It doesn't do the best job.

Then I visited with them for awhile. We all drank Sahlab (very delicious) and were having a great time talking. I love the women. It's so nice to have such wonderful friends--people to laugh with, to share with, to encourage...just to love.