Monday, March 16, 2009

Operation Smile



I helped out with Operation Smile last week. All the families were Palestinians, and they were so nice! Made me wish we had Peace Corps Palestine...

Not all of the kids had cleft lips and palates. Some of them had really severe scarring from burns, usually from hot tea (my guess is you know that sugar elevates water's boiling point, and they put quite a bit of sugar in their tea here). There were also kids with really big black marks on their faces--I don't know for sure if they were just intense birth marks or what. A couple had bad burns on their faces.

My days went from about 6 or 7am until 10 or 11pm. We would take a bus full of patients over to the hospital in the morning for their operations, and sometimes another trip of patients in the afternoon. We had to be Nazis, not letting the patients eat or drink anything--especially little kids because they can die if they do.

When I went to the hospital, I helped out there. When I stayed at the hotel with patients that were still waiting their turn, we'd play volleyball upstairs, work on a puzzle, color, play with playdoh...all that jazz. Most of the little kids were operated on first, and then they got progressively older. There were quite a few teenagers. I'll give you the highlights:

  • I watched an operation up close. Crazy, I know. If you're wondering how, I just asked the meanest looking lady there was, because she was in charge, and then she actually let me go in. I watched a kid getting a lump taken out of his back. I know readers have different levels of how much information they can handle, so I'll leave out the details. I wore the full get-up--doctor apron, mask, hair cover, shoe covers.
  • Sat with Isma (adorable little girl, below) during her speech therapy. She likes to hold hands. And to tickle people.
  • Performed a search in someone's room looking for some documents--it felt really weird to be going through someone's things. Kind of felt like I was a detective or something.
  • Had a wonderful dinner of pizza and beer on my last night in Amman. Don't get too excited--it was only one beer. Boys went out to get the drinks and us girls went to get the pizza. Amazing. (there were three guys and three of us girls)

It was so much fun!

This is Bill and his tallness...

This week I've been home sick for the most part. I went into work today after missing two days thanks to illness, and it was a big mistake. I'm a lot worse than I was, so I won't be going in tomorrow. Blah. My greatest fear at the moment is running out of tissues!

Much love.

Friday, February 20, 2009

Food, a Funeral, and a Washing Machine

My neighbors and I have been sharing a lot of food lately. They cook a Jordanian meal for us and bring it over on a silver tray, and it is always mind-boggling delicious. Within a day, I return their plates on their silver tray, with food that I have made. I've learned my lesson that Jordanians do not like spicy food, so curry is a big no-no. But boy! They sure do love pancakes!

Food is one of the best ways I know to connect with people, and Jordanians seem to have the same sentiment. It's a way for us to reach out to each other across cultures, each of us trying something new. It's a way to show that we care about each other.

Thursday night, our next-door neighbors brought us a new dish to try. The next morning, I made them a huge, heaping stack of pancakes fresh off the stove. In a side bowl I gave them some apricot jam.

Later on that day, I got a call from Rana (my mudeera/boss and friend), and she and Ayat were going to give their condolences to a grieving family for the loss of their father/grandfather and were wondering if I would come with them. It's a family I know, and an important one for me to visit, so I went along.

We were in the house with only women, and the place was packed. Jordanians grieve for three days here, and yesterday was the third day. I greeted and shook each woman's hand--there must have been 100 or so crammed in there, all sitting down on farshas. Then I found a nook and a band of women welcoming me to sit next to them, so I joined them. They were the daughters of the deceased--all in their 30s or 40s now. I already knew one of them well, because she works in the Post Office and is always the one to call us when we have a package.

I stayed roughly an hour, talking with these women and admiring their children. Then a lady came to me to offer me dates that were flavored with cardomom and dipped in coconut shavings, and I took one, and that obviously wasn't enough, so she grabbed a handful herself and placed it in a tissue, and then gave it to me.

Being the foreinger, the entire room had their eyes on me. When I ate my first date, suddenly that room full of mourners was roaring with laughter. It was as if I had managed to do the funniest thing they had ever seen. They were laughing because I had put the date in my mouth without taking the pit out first, and therefore figured that I had no idea the seed was still inside. I didn't think I had to take the pit out first with these particular dates, because they were the small ones, and the small ones are really gooey. I knew that I was supposed to take the pit out with big dates though, but those are easy.

Anyway, I was laughing with them, because it's very funny when you see the situation throught their eyes. The next date I ate, I was sure to pull it apart first, pick out the pit, and then put the fruit in my mouth. They were stunned. "Wow, she learns so fast" I could hear them say among each other.

The moment I got home, I learned that our neighbors had been by looking for me while I was out. So I went over to their door and asked what they wanted.

I need to tell you a brief bit of background first. Erik and I finally bought a washing machine for our clothes. When you think of a washing machine, don't think of the ones we have in the
States. These ones are smaller, and you fill them up with water yourself. When the load is done, you drain out the water, usually emptying it into a bucket, or if there is a draining hole in the floor close enough to the washer, you can let the water drain into that through a hose. Then you fill it up with water again, rinse the clothes, drain it again, and then put the clothes into the spinning compartment. You can only spin a few articles of clothing at a time. The water then spins out and you have close-to-dry clothes. Beautiful!

Our washing machine cost us 90 dinar, which is roughly 127 US dollars. That sure is a lot cheaper than anything you can get in the States! And you know what else? When we wash clothes and drain them, water gets all over the floor, even though we use the hose and most of it goes to the destination we designated. That means that ever time we do the laundry, we also clean the floor! I bet your washing machine doesn't do that for you--wash the clothes AND clean the floor! And how much does it cost to own one of those machines? Hmmm?! Yep, we definitely have the better deal.

And if you're wondering how one cleans the floors here, it is quite genius. There are big holes in the floor that you shovel water into when you're mopping (there's a cover for these holes when not in use). So you dump soapy water onto the ground, and then use a giant squeegie to move the water from the floor into the hole in the ground, and poof! The floor is clean and the water is gone.

Back to the story...

I knew our neighbors had a washer, but not a spinner. So when we got our washing machine, I told them that if they ever wanted to have their clothes spun dry, I'd be happy to help them with that. They have a big family, and it's especially difficult to get clothes dry in the winter.

So last night, when I got home, it turned out that they had been doing the laundry and were wondering if I would be willing to spin their clothes for them. Of course! I was so delighted that they took me up on my offer! I said I was very happy to help, and they helped me carry their buckets of sopping-wet clothes to my door, I spun the water out and returned them, and they were thrilled. It makes life so much easier for them. I would know--I used to have to try to dry my clothes as best as possible with my hands. It doesn't do the best job.

Then I visited with them for awhile. We all drank Sahlab (very delicious) and were having a great time talking. I love the women. It's so nice to have such wonderful friends--people to laugh with, to share with, to encourage...just to love.

Dancing

I get a lot of comments here from people in shock that I dance like they do. That always strikes me as an odd thing to say, so I laugh and reply, "of course I dance like you do!"

My whole life right now is with Arabs, so I dance like I'm Arab. If I was with Filipinos, I'd jump in a line dance with them. If someone swept me up in Swing, I'd be following along and Swing dancing the night away. Or Salsa. If I was at a Pow Wow, I'd be square dancing and doing the do-si-do and swingin' my partner to the left. And if someone was jumping around like an idiot, I'd join in the chaos.

Dancing is a way to meet people where they are at and have a blast. So of course I'll dance like you do!

Thursday, February 19, 2009

Changing the World with Hugs

"When I see myself through your eyes, I am beautiful. I love you so much Allison." Randa was beaming as she spoke.

"Wonderful! I really love you!" I replied. And at that, she got out of her chair and came at me with open arms, and I wrapped her up in mine and we gave each other huge hugs. After a little while, she let go to look at me and said, "I love these!" and immediately wanted another one.

I know I am impacting the world around me because of hugs. Hugging is a very culturally inappropriate action because they are full of emotion. For some reason, positive emotions are kept in check, but anger is openly displayed. I don't think I'll ever understand why that is. Hugging is even a breach of appropriate behavior within families. But hugs are catching like wildfire among the women I know. I get lots of hugs now (always indoors, of course)! The women here crave the warm and open affection that is the essence of "the hug." Typically, the first time I give a woman a hug, she'll start crying and won't let go. So make no mistake--hugs are powerful.

So there you have it: I am changing the world, one hug at a time.

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

April

April has a heavy presence in my heart. She is very dear to me. Unfortunately, I can't write to her like I used to because it is too expensive for me in Jordan, and she is not able to write either, because it is too expensive for her since each letter is roughly a dollar to send here, and she only makes a dollar a day.

April was sentenced to life in prison at the age of 15.

I knew we wouldn't be able to keep writing letters when I left for service, so I asked Jen (a very close friend of mine) to write to her in the meantime. Jen happily complied--she's been in and out of jail throughout her life and she isn't one to judge. But Jen also has a difficult time with commitment and has some strong barriers (I'm a strange exception), which she has needed in her life to survive. Her anger is also a protection technique. Anyway, because of these barriers she is no longer writing.

If anyone feels a pull on their heart to reach out to April and be a pen pal with her, I'd really appreciate it and I know she would too. I care about her so much. Please only write if it is something you would continue, because the last thing she needs is someone to leave her high and dry again. And please let her know that I am eagerly looking forward to corresponding with her on a regular basis again in a year and 1/2!

If you are uncomfortable with her writing directly to your address, you can give her your church address or something. She wrote directly to my address in Chicago.

Also, she might ask for money to help her get a lawyer. That is a very common thing for prisoners to ask for, but not something you need to do. I have never given her money and that never changed our friendship.

This is her address:

April Barber
#0018261
1034 Bragg Street
Raleigh, NC 27610

Again, only write if it is something you would continue and your heart is in it. And let me know! I love you all.

Introduction

First, I am supposed to give a disclaimer that everything that I write on this blog is solely from me, and Peace Corps is not to be responsible in any way. Peace Corps is not accountable for my opinions.

With that said, this blog is not intended to be about my every day life in Jordan. It's more topic-focused--more of the things I think about while living here, or specific events that occur, than what happens in the day-to-day grind. And I'd love responses or feedback--more of a conversation/discussion than a monologue!